Black out fabric for curtains was the project I thought required buying new curtains. I had four existing curtain panels in my bedroom that I liked. They were the right color, the right length, and the right style, but they only blocked 60 percent of the light. I tried washing them first — that got them to about 70 percent. Still not enough to sleep past 5 a.m. in July. So I added a blackout lining. The lining cost $12 per window, took about 30 minutes per window, and got the room to about 97 percent dark. That's what this article is about, which was inadequate for sleeping past 5 a.m. on a summer morning. The replacement black out fabric for curtains would have been $120 to $200, and the replacement would have required me to throw away the curtains I liked. The black out fabric option was something I'd never heard of until a friend who sews told me that the right answer is to add a blackout lining to the existing curtain. The lining is a separate piece of fabric that hangs behind the curtain, and the lining blocks 95 to 99 percent of light without replacing the curtain. The lining costs $8 to $30 per window, and the install takes 30 to 60 minutes per window. What follows is the 3 types of black out fabric for curtains I tested, the 4 DIY steps, the 1 tool to skip, and the no-sew 30-minute hack for renters who don't have a sewing machine.
The 3 Fabric Types (And What Each Blocks)
Type one is the polyester blackout fabric. The polyester is the cheapest at $2 to $4 per yard, and the polyester is the most common at fabric stores. The polyester blocks 95 to 99 percent of light, and the polyester is durable. The polyester is not breathable, and the non-breathability is the same concern as a polyester curtain. The polyester is the wrong answer for a nursery, and the polyester is the right answer for a living room or a den where breathability is not a concern. The polyester is also the wrong answer for a renter who has curtains that are already made of a breathable fabric, because the polyester lining cancels the breathability of the outer curtain.
Type two is the cotton-polyester blend. The blend is 50 percent cotton and 50 percent polyester, and the blend costs $4 to $8 per yard. The blend blocks 95 to 99 percent of light, and the blend is more breathable than the pure polyester. The blend is the right answer for a bedroom where the renter has breathable outer curtains, because the blend adds light blocking without canceling the outer curtain's breathability. The blend is heavier than plain polyester, and heavier fabric tends to block more sound. But don't expect a specific number. The actual noise reduction depends on how tightly the curtain seals against the window, how much fabric is gathered, and how thick the fabric is. A blackout lining helps a little with noise. It won't make a noisy street quiet. The same logic applies to water stains on the wall — small details that are easy to ignore become big problems if you don't address them.
Type three is the triple-weave blackout fabric. Triple-weave is a three-pass construction: a black yarn layer sandwiched between two decorative face layers, all woven together on the loom. It looks like a normal curtain fabric from the front and back, and the black middle layer is what blocks the light. It's a single piece of fabric, not a separate lining, and the triple-weave is the most expensive at $8 to $15 per yard. The triple-weave blocks 99 percent of light, and the triple-weave is breathable. The triple-weave is the right answer for a renter who wants a single fabric that replaces the outer curtain, because the triple-weave is a single-layer fabric that can be sewn into a curtain panel. The triple-weave is also the right answer for a renter who has curtains that are not made of a breathable fabric, because the triple-weave adds breathability along with light blocking. The triple-weave is the most versatile of the three types, and the triple-weave is what I'd buy again.
The 4-Step DIY Add-Lining Install
Step one is to measure the existing curtain. The lining should be the same width as the curtain and 1 to 2 inches shorter than the curtain. The lining is shorter so the lining doesn't show below the curtain, and the lining is the same width so the lining covers the entire window. The measurement takes 5 minutes, and the measurement is the difference between a lining that fits the curtain and a lining that hangs visibly below the curtain.
Step two is to cut the lining. The lining is cut to the measured dimensions, and the cut is done with fabric scissors or a rotary cutter. The cut should be straight, and the cut edge should be perpendicular to the selvedge (the factory edge of the fabric). A cut that's not straight will hang unevenly, and a hanging that's uneven is what the brain processes when the room is dim. The same pattern recognition applies to spackle versus caulk — the right cut is the right fit, and the right fit is the difference between a clean install and a sloppy install.
Step three is to attach the lining to the curtain. The attachment has 3 options: sew, fabric glue, or hook-and-loop. Sew is the most secure, and the sew takes 20 to 30 minutes per panel. Fabric glue is the next most secure, and the glue takes 5 to 10 minutes per panel. Hook-and-loop (Velcro) is the least secure, and the hook-and-loop takes 5 to 10 minutes per panel. The hook-and-loop is the right answer for a renter who wants the lining to be removable for washing. The hook-and-loop is also the right answer for a renter who wants the lining to be reusable when the renter moves to a new apartment with different curtains. The same advice applies to door handle repair — the right attachment is the right fit, and the right fit is the difference between a permanent install and a reversible install.
Step four is to hang the curtain with the lining. The curtain with the lining hangs on the existing rod, and the curtain with the lining blocks 95 to 99 percent of light. The hanging is the same as hanging a single curtain, and the hanging takes 30 seconds per window. The hanging is the final step, and the hanging is the difference between a bedroom that's dark at 5 a.m. and a bedroom that's bright at 5 a.m. The hanging is the test, and the test confirms whether the lining is the right answer for the room.
The 1 Tool to Skip (And the 1 Renter Hack That Works)
The 1 tool to skip is the sewing machine. A sewing machine is a $100 to $500 investment, and the sewing machine is overkill for a one-room lining install. A renter who doesn't already have a sewing machine should not buy one for a single project, and the renter should use one of the no-sew options instead. The no-sew options are fabric glue, hook-and-loop, and the clip-on method, and the no-sew options take 5 to 10 minutes per panel. The no-sew options are reversible, and the reversibility is the right answer for a renter who is in the apartment for less than a year. The same pattern recognition applies to sliding door guide repairs — the right tool is the right fit, and the no-sew option is the right fit for a renter who doesn't already have the tool.
The 1 renter hack that works is the clip-on method. The clip-on method is a set of curtain clips that attach to the top of the curtain, and the clips hold the lining behind the curtain without any sewing or glue. The clips cost $4 to $8 for a 12-pack, and the clips take 2 minutes to attach per panel. The clip-on method is the right answer for a renter who wants the lining to be removable for washing, and the clip-on method is the right answer for a renter who wants the lining to be reusable. The clip-on method is also the right answer for a renter who is in the apartment for less than a year, because the clips and the lining come off when the renter moves out, and the wall and the curtain are unchanged.
One renter-to-renter warning. The clip-on method is not as secure as sewing or fabric glue, and the clips can fall off when the curtain is opened and closed. The fix is to use 6 to 8 clips per panel instead of the standard 4 to 6, and the extra clips distribute the weight of the lining. The fix is also to check the clips every 6 months and replace any clips that have weakened, because a weakened clip will fall off and the lining will pool at the bottom of the curtain. The pooled lining is the cause of the "the curtain looks messy" complaint that most renters have about clip-on linings.
When to DIY vs Buy New Blackout
DIY the lining when the existing curtain is the right color, length, and style, and the only problem is the light blocking. The lining is the right answer for a renter who likes the existing curtain, and the lining is the right answer for a renter who can't afford new curtains. The lining costs $8 to $30 per window, and the new curtains would cost $60 to $200 per window. The savings is $40 to $170 per window, and the savings is the difference between a $30 install and a $200 install. The same logic applies to sliding door guide repairs — the right product for the right situation, and the lining is the right answer for a renter who likes the existing curtain.
Buy new blackout curtains when the existing curtain is the wrong color, length, or style, and the renter has the budget for new curtains. The new curtains are the right answer for a renter who is redecorating the room, and the new curtains are the right answer for a renter who wants a specific pattern or color that the existing curtain doesn't have. The new curtains cost $60 to $200 per window, and the new curtains are the most expensive option. The new curtains are also the most reversible option, because the new curtains come off when the renter moves out, and the wall is unchanged.
Before you decide between adding a lining and buying new curtains, wash the existing curtain. A curtain that hasn't been washed in six months is carrying dust, and the dust reduces the light blocking. A washed curtain might block 70 to 80 percent of light instead of 60. If the room isn't sun-facing, that might be enough. The wash is free, and it might save you the cost of the lining. A curtain that hasn't been washed in 6 months is dirty, and the dirt reduces the light blocking by 10 to 20 percent. A washed curtain is the test, and the washed curtain may block 70 to 80 percent of light, which is enough for a bedroom that's not sun-facing. The wash is free, and the wash may save the renter the $8 to $30 cost of the lining. The wash is the right answer for a renter who is on a budget, and the wash is the right answer for a renter who wants to test the room's light blocking before investing in a lining or new curtains.
If You Have No-Sew Apartment (The 30-Minute Clip-On Hack)
The 30-minute clip-on hack is the fastest way to add a blackout lining to an existing curtain, and the hack takes 30 minutes per window from start to finish. The hack starts with measuring the curtain, cutting the lining, attaching the clips, and hanging the curtain. The 4 steps take 5 minutes for measuring, 5 minutes for cutting, 10 minutes for attaching the clips, and 5 minutes for hanging. The 5 minutes for hanging is the final step, and the 5 minutes is the difference between a 30-minute hack and a 2-hour install.
The 30-minute hack is the right answer for a renter who needs the light blocking done today, and the 30-minute hack is the right answer for a renter who is moving in this week. The 30-minute hack is also the right answer for a renter who is testing whether the lining works in the room before committing to a more permanent install. The 30-minute hack is the test, and the test is the difference between a $8 investment and a $30 investment. The test is the right answer for a renter who is on a budget, and the test is the right answer for a renter who wants to confirm the light blocking works before investing more time and money.
The 1 thing to do after the 30-minute hack is to test the room the next morning. The test is to close the curtain with the lining, close the door to the room, and wait 5 minutes for the eyes to adjust. If the room is dark enough to sleep, the hack worked. If the room is still bright, the lining needs to be wider or longer, and the lining is the right answer for a re-do. The test takes 5 minutes, and the test is the difference between a 30-minute hack that worked and a 30-minute hack that needs a re-do. The same advice applies to every DIY project — the test is the right answer for a renter who wants to confirm the project worked before investing more.
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